Top things to do in Nice
Begin at the sea: the Promenade des Anglais curves for seven kilometers along the Baie des Anges, laid out in the 19th century by English visitors who wintered here and lined today with Belle Époque hotels like the pink-domed Négresco. From the promenade it's a short walk into Vieux Nice, the old town's tangle of ochre lanes, baroque churches and shuttered windows that still feels closer to Genoa than to Paris.
Climb Colline du Château for the best view in the city — a hilltop park where a medieval fortress once stood, with a waterfall and a panorama over the old town's red rooftops and the curve of the bay. Back down at sea level, Place Masséna's checkerboard pavement and Apollo fountain form the city's social heart, and art lovers should cross town for the Musée Matisse and Musée Chagall, built around two artists who found their light here.
Neighborhoods and where to eat
Vieux Nice is where you eat as much as where you sightsee — its narrow streets hide small bistros between souvenir shops, and mornings belong to Cours Saleya, the long market square that fills with flower stalls, fresh produce and socca vendors (antiques take over on Mondays). Beyond the old town, the Port Lympia district has a quieter, working-harbor feel, while Cimiez, up the hill, mixes Roman ruins with the Musée Matisse.
This is the birthplace of Niçoise cuisine, a Mediterranean pantry with strong Italian accents: salade niçoise built on raw vegetables, anchovies and olives rather than lettuce, pissaladière (onion tart topped with anchovies and olives), pan bagnat sandwiches, and stuffed vegetables called petits farcis. But the dish to hunt down is socca, a thin chickpea-flour pancake cooked on giant griddles and sold by the slice — cheap, filling and everywhere in the old town.
Getting around and best time to visit
Central Nice is compact and walkable — the seafront, old town and Place Masséna are all within twenty minutes of each other on foot. The modern tram network covers the rest, including the route out to the airport, and Nice Côte d'Azur is one of the few major European airports within a short tram ride of the center. Trains from Gare de Nice-Ville make easy day trips to Monaco, Cannes and the hill villages of the Riviera.
Aim for May, June or September, when the sea is warm and the crowds thinner than the July–August peak, when hotel prices spike and the beaches fill up. February brings the Carnaval de Nice, one of the world's great carnivals, if you don't mind cooler weather. Free walking tours run year-round, rain or shine.
