Top things to do in Zagreb
Start where most visitors do: Ban Jelačić Square, the city's living room, then climb into Gornji Grad (the Upper Town) to see St Mark's Church, its tiled roof laid out in the coats of arms of Zagreb and of Croatia, Dalmatia and Slavonia. A few steps away, the Lotrščak Tower still fires a cannon shot at noon, a ritual that's been running since the 19th century — ride the tiny funicular down rather than take the stairs, just to say you've done it.
Back at street level, wander Dolac market, spread out above Jelačić Square under its rows of red umbrellas, then walk to the twin neo-Gothic spires of Zagreb Cathedral before losing an hour or two in the strange, genuinely moving Museum of Broken Relationships, where breakup mementos from around the world get a permanent home.
Neighborhoods and where to eat
Gornji Grad (Upper Town) is Zagreb's postcard quarter — quiet cobbled lanes, government buildings and church spires, best explored slowly and mostly on foot, since cars are limited. Tkalčićeva, the street that traces a covered-over stream just downhill, is where the city goes for coffee by day and drinks by night; the Lower Town, Donji Grad, spreads out in a grid of parks and grand 19th-century buildings, with Zrinjevac park a favorite for a slow stroll.
For food, start at Dolac market for cheese, cured meats and produce sold straight from the villages around the city, then order štrukli wherever you see it on a menu — a baked or boiled pastry of cottage cheese that's Zagreb's signature comfort dish. Round it out with grilled meats, a glass of Croatian wine, and a coffee lingered over on a Tkalčićeva terrace, which is as much a local pastime as an activity.
Getting around and best time to visit
Central Zagreb is compact and walkable, with the Upper and Lower towns linked by the short, century-old funicular as well as plenty of stairs. Trams cover the rest of the city cheaply and run late; a single ticket bought from a kiosk or the driver covers 90 minutes of travel. The airport sits about 17 km south of downtown, with a shuttle bus timed to flights running into the main bus station.
Zagreb has a proper continental climate, unlike the Croatian coast: warm summers, cold winters, and its best weather in late spring (May–June) and early autumn (September–October), when days are mild and the outdoor cafés are at their best. Winter brings a well-loved Christmas market to the Upper Town squares, so it's worth visiting even in the cold if festive lights and mulled wine sound appealing. Free walking tours run year-round, rain or shine, so pack for whatever the season throws at you.
